Straight answers to the questions Auckland homeowners and businesses ask us most — about quotes, costs, timelines, prep, products, and our guarantee. Cost figures here come from our own Auckland job records and cost guides; every job is different, so the accurate number always follows a site visit. Book a free consultation when you’re ready.
Getting Started & Quotes
How do I get a quote from Superior Painters?
Start by booking a free consultation. We come to your place, look at the actual surfaces, measure up, and talk through what you want done. You get a written proposal off the back of that visit — not a number over the phone.
Is the quote free and is there any obligation?
Yes, the consultation and quote are free and there’s no obligation to go ahead. We’d rather you had an accurate on-site estimate to compare properly than a rushed figure you can’t trust.
Can you give me a price over the phone?
No, and any painter who does is guessing. The price depends on surface type, size, condition, access, colour changes, and how much prep is needed — none of which we can see down a phone line. For a rough starting figure, use one of our cost calculators first, then book a site visit for the real number.
How long does a quote take to turn around?
Most residential quotes come back to you within a few days of the site visit. Larger or commercial jobs with more scope take a little longer because there’s more to measure and spec.
What should a proper painting quote include?
Company details and GST number, a full scope with measurements, the prep work, the exact paint products and number of coats, labour and timeline, payment terms, a sign-off process, and a workmanship guarantee with a date on it. We break this down in our guide to what a painting quote should include. If a quote is missing these, you can’t compare it fairly.
Why is the cheapest quote not always the best?
Because the gap is almost always in the prep and the product, not the painter’s margin. A cheap quote often means a pressure-wash instead of proper prep, one topcoat instead of two, or a budget paint. It looks good on paper and shows up again in three years as peeling or flashing.
Do you offer a cost calculator so I can budget first?
Yes. We’ve got instant calculators for exterior, interior, roof, plastering and gib stopping, and commercial work. They give you an Auckland price range with no details required — a starting point, not a quote.
What areas of Auckland do you cover?
We work right across Auckland — North Shore, West, East, Central, and South. From Titirangi to Glendowie, Papakura up to Silverdale. If you’re not sure, get in touch and we’ll confirm.
Do you do both residential and commercial work?
Yes. We run residential painting across the city and a dedicated commercial painting operation for offices, retail, warehouses, and body-corporate buildings. They’re run differently, so we quote them differently.
Are you insured, and can I see proof?
Yes. Ask and we’ll provide a certificate of insurance. Getting it directly from the insurer’s agent is the surest way to confirm the cover is current — worth doing with any contractor you’re considering.
Can I see examples of your past work?
Have a look at our before and after gallery. It’s the honest version — real Auckland homes, real surfaces.
Costs & Pricing
How much does it cost to paint a house exterior in Auckland?
Most Auckland exteriors land between $4,000 and $18,000 depending on size, cladding, condition, and paint. A standard weatherboard villa typically runs $7,000–$12,000; a similar-sized brick-and-tile costs less because there’s less paintable surface. Full breakdown in our exterior painting cost guide.
How much does interior painting cost?
A basic repaint (walls only, same colour) runs about $300–$700 per room, rising to $800–$1,500 per room for full work with ceilings, trims, and a colour change. A full three-bedroom house typically runs $4,500–$9,000. See the interior painting cost guide for room-by-room numbers.
How much does roof painting cost?
For most standard 150–200m² Auckland homes in 2026, roof painting sits between $3,500 and $9,500 fully prepped and coated. Iron roofs sit at the lower end; concrete tile and Decramastic higher. Our roof painting cost breakdown has the full table by roof size and type.
What does gib stopping cost?
Gib stopping typically runs $25–$70 per square metre for labour, depending on the finish level. A standard bedroom is about $1,000–$1,800, and a full three-bedroom house of new gib from around $8,000. The finish level is the biggest cost driver — details in our gib stopping cost guide.
What does commercial painting cost per square metre?
Most commercial repaints in Auckland land around $40–$50 per square metre, depending on access and surface. Scale, scheduling around your operations, and site health-and-safety all move the figure. See the commercial painting guide or use the commercial calculator.
Why do two quotes for the same house differ so much?
Usually it’s what’s actually in the quote — prep depth, primer system, paint product, and number of coats. Two homes on the same street can be $3,000 apart on roof painting alone. The cheaper one isn’t always the better deal, and the dearer one isn’t always overpriced. Ask each painter what’s included.
What drives the price of an exterior paint job up or down?
Substrate type, condition, access, number of storeys, colour changes, and paint spec. Timber weatherboard is the most labour-intensive because of gaps, edges, and end grain. Any rot or failed old paint has to be dealt with before painting, which adds time.
Do you charge per square metre or per job?
We quote a fixed price for the job after the site visit, but per-square-metre rates are how we benchmark it internally. For roofs that’s roughly $25–$55 per m² in 2026; commercial repaints around $40–$50 per m². The fixed quote is what you actually pay.
Is a deposit required?
Yes, we ask for a deposit to secure your spot on the schedule. With any contractor, before handing over a large deposit — even 10% — it’s worth doing a background check and confirming they’re in good standing with their suppliers.
Does the quote include paint and materials?
Yes. A proper quote spells out the exact products and number of coats alongside labour, so paint and materials are in the figure. If a quote doesn’t name the products, ask — that’s where surprises hide.
Can I save money by doing some of the prep myself?
Sometimes, for straightforward things like clearing furniture or a general tidy-up. But prep like sanding, stripping failed paint, and priming is where the finish is won or lost, so we’d rather handle it. Talk to us at the quote and we’ll tell you honestly what’s worth you doing.
Do prices change between summer and winter?
The quote is based on scope, not season. But timing affects the job — winter’s rain and humidity mean fewer paintable days for exterior work, so booking ahead for a settled-weather slot is smart. More on that in our guide to the best time to paint an Auckland exterior.
Timelines
How long will my painting project take?
Every job is different, but as a general guide most residential projects run one to three weeks from a signed contract and confirmed colours. Straightforward jobs can be as quick as four to five days. The actual timing depends on surface condition, scope, our schedule, and the weather on exterior work.
How soon can you start after I accept the quote?
We can’t lock you into the schedule until we have both a signed contract and your colour selections. Once those are in, we generally start within one to three weeks, and we run multiple crews so we can usually work around your timeline.
Do you finish one job before starting another?
Once we start your project we stay on it each day until it’s done, unless something beyond our control like weather stops exterior work. You won’t get a crew disappearing for days at a time.
What happens if it rains during my exterior job?
We watch the forecast closely. If rain comes through mid-job we stop and pick it back up once the surface has dried out. Painting over damp or in the wrong conditions is how a finish fails inside a year, so we don’t push it.
Will weather delays cost me more?
No. Weather delays are part of exterior work in Auckland and they don’t change your quoted price. We’d rather wait for the right conditions than rush a coat on that won’t last.
Can you work around my schedule?
Yes. We give realistic deadlines and work around you where we can. We often start before you head to work and can arrange to pick up a key ahead of time if that suits.
When is the best time of year to paint an Auckland exterior?
The dry, warmer stretch from late spring to early autumn — roughly November to April — when daytime temperatures stay above 10°C and you can line up several rain-free days. Many homeowners book over the cooler months and have it painted once the weather settles. See our best time to paint guide.
How long before painting do I need to confirm my colours?
Before we can schedule you. We can’t put a start date on the calendar until colours are locked in, because they affect product ordering. If you’re stuck, our colour consultation can help you decide.
How long does interior paint take to dry between coats?
It depends on the product and conditions, but we work to the manufacturer’s recoat times rather than rushing. In Auckland’s humid winters, coats take longer to cure — gib stopping compound can need 24 hours or more between coats, for example.
Will the job be disruptive to my household?
We keep disruption to a minimum. Furniture is moved and covered, areas are protected, and most clients carry on with their day while we work. On interiors we put everything back where it came from once we’re done.
Do larger or commercial jobs take longer to schedule?
Yes. Commercial work involves more scope, scheduling around your operations, and site health-and-safety planning, so it takes longer to quote and book than a single home. We put a dedicated project manager on every commercial job to keep it on track.
Interior Painting
What does an interior painting job include?
Typically moving and covering furniture, protecting floors, prep (filling, sanding, spot-priming), cutting in, and rolling two coats of a quality product. On completion we put the furniture back where it was. Scope is confirmed in your written quote.
How much does it cost to paint a single room?
A standard double bedroom in the existing colour (walls only, two coats) runs about $350–$550; include the ceiling and trims and it’s $550–$850. A colour change adds $100–$200 for the extra coat. Full room-by-room pricing is in our interior cost guide.
How often should I repaint the interior of my home?
As a rule of thumb, walls every five to seven years (sooner in high-traffic rooms), ceilings every eight to ten, and trims every two to four. Interior paint isn’t exposed to the weather, so it lasts longer than exterior — the real question is often whether you’re tired of looking at it. More in our how often to repaint guide.
Do I need to move out while you paint inside?
No. Most interior jobs are done with you still living there. We work room by room where we can and keep everything covered and tidy so you can carry on.
What paint do you use in kitchens and bathrooms?
Wet areas need a washable, moisture-resistant finish. We use products like Resene Sonyx 101 or Dulux Aquanamel — both are semi-gloss, clean up easily, and have mould-inhibiting properties, which matters in Auckland’s humidity. A standard interior paint in a bathroom can grow mould inside 12 to 18 months without the right product and ventilation.
What paint finish should I choose for walls?
Sheen runs from flat through eggshell, satin, semi-gloss, to high gloss. Lower sheens hide surface imperfections; higher sheens wipe clean more easily and suit wet or high-traffic areas. We’ll recommend a finish per room at the quote — for general living areas a low-sheen product like Resene SpaceCote or Dulux Wash and Wear is a common pick.
Do you paint ceilings and trims as well as walls?
Yes, and whether they’re included changes the price, so we spell it out in the quote. Ceilings and trims wear at different rates to walls, so you don’t always need to do everything at once.
Can you paint over dark or bold colours?
Yes, but going light over dark usually needs an extra coat, which is why a colour change adds to the cost. We prime where needed so the old colour doesn’t ghost through.
How do I keep my interior paint looking good?
Clean marks off before they build up — hand prints around switches, splashes in kitchens and bathrooms. Start with a mild detergent and a soft cloth or sponge, and rinse thoroughly so no residue is left, since that can interfere with any future coat. Only reach for harsher cleaners when you have to, as they can dull the sheen.
Do you protect my furniture and floors?
Yes. Once you’ve moved delicate items and valuables, we cover everything that stays with clean drop cloths or plastic sheeting. On completion the covers come off and furniture goes back where it started.
Can you paint a rental property between tenancies?
Yes, we do a lot of rental repaints and can work to a turnaround window between tenants. A durable, washable spec makes sense in a rental so it stands up to the next tenancy.
Exterior Painting
How long does an exterior paint job last?
A quality exterior repaint in Auckland lasts roughly 8 to 12 years depending on the cladding and how exposed the home is. Prep is the biggest factor — it’s best not to leave it until the house is badly peeling, because that adds prep time and can turn up rot repairs. See our repaint frequency guide.
What does it cost to paint a weatherboard villa?
Expect around $7,000–$14,000 for a standard two-storey weatherboard villa in the inner suburbs (Mt Eden, Grey Lynn, Ponsonby, Kingsland), including water blast, sand and prep, spot prime, full prime coat, and two topcoats. Single-storey weatherboards typically run $5,000–$9,000. Source: our exterior cost guide.
Why is brick-and-tile cheaper to paint than weatherboard?
There’s less paintable surface. On most brick-and-tile homes the brick is left unpainted, so the work focuses on eaves, fascia, gable ends, window surrounds, and any fibrous cement panels. A typical three-bedroom brick-and-tile in Albany or Howick runs $3,500–$6,500. Painting the full brick as well adds $2,000–$5,000.
What paint do you use on exterior weatherboard?
Resene Lumbersider is a long-time favourite for Auckland weatherboard — water-based, breathable (which matters on older timber), and it holds colour in NZ’s UV. Dulux Weathershield is another quality option. For rough-sawn timber, Resene Woodsman is a penetrating oil-based alternative for a natural finish.
Does my house need a wash before painting?
Almost always. Dirt, salt, moss, and mould have to come off or the new paint won’t adhere. Most homes need a soft house wash rather than high-pressure water blasting — more in our house washing vs water blasting guide.
Can you paint over existing peeling or flaking paint?
Not directly. Failed paint has to be scraped, sanded, or stripped back to a sound surface first, and bare timber spot-primed. Painting over flaking paint just traps the problem and it comes back through the new coat.
What if there’s rot in my weatherboards?
Rot is common in older Auckland homes where maintenance has been deferred, and it has to be sorted before painting. Minor timber repairs we can handle as part of the job; anything structural we’ll flag so the right trade can look at it. We’ll point this out at the quote rather than surprise you mid-job.
Do you paint fibrous cement (James Hardie) cladding?
Yes. Fibrous cement weatherboard is very common in Auckland’s 1970s–1990s homes and paints well with the right prep and primer. We spec the system to the substrate at the quote.
How do I maintain my exterior paint between repaints?
Walk around the outside now and then looking for cracks, water penetration, and chalking. Give the house a wash about once a year to clear surface dirt and moss before it builds up. Catching problems early is what keeps a small maintenance job from turning into a big one.
Can you paint a two-storey home safely?
Yes. Two-storey exterior work needs scaffolding or edge protection, which is why it adds cost. Height and access safety on site is managed under the relevant NZ health-and-safety requirements, and any scaffold work is handled by the appropriate qualified party.
Should I paint the roof and exterior at the same time?
It can make sense if both are due — you get the access set up once. But they’re separate scopes with separate pricing. We’ll quote them individually so you can see each cost and decide. See roof painting and exterior painting.
Roof Painting
How much does it cost to paint a roof in Auckland?
For a standard 100–200m² home in 2026: an iron roof runs about $3,500–$6,500, and tile or Decramastic about $7,000–$12,000. Smaller and larger roofs sit either side of that. Two-storey access adds 20–40% for scaffolding and edge protection. Full table in our roof cost breakdown.
Why do tile and Decramastic roofs cost more than iron?
They need more prep and more primer. Iron takes a coating more readily; concrete tile and Decramastic are more porous and demanding, which is why they sit at the higher end of the range.
What’s the per-square-metre rate for roof painting?
Roughly $25–$55 per square metre in 2026, depending on roof type, condition, pitch, and access. It’s a useful benchmark, but per-m² rates can mislead — a tidy iron roof and a lichen-covered tile roof of the same size are very different jobs.
How do I know if my roof needs painting or replacing?
If the substrate is sound and it’s mainly the coating that’s failed, painting restores and protects it. If there’s widespread rust-through, cracked tiles, or failed flashings, replacement may be the better spend. We’ll give you the honest call at the site visit rather than sell you a coat of paint over a roof that needs replacing.
What does a proper roof painting job involve?
A soft wash plus moss and lichen treatment, rust or repair spot-work as needed, a primer system suited to the substrate, then two topcoats. If a quote is well below the range for your roof type, ask what’s been cut — usually it’s the prep or a coat.
Why are cheap roof quotes risky?
Because the saving is nearly always in the prep. Pressure-wash only instead of soft-wash plus moss treatment, no primer, a single topcoat — it looks fine on day one and shows up three years later as flashing or peeling. Cheap on paper, dearer over ten years.
How long does a roof paint job last?
A properly prepped and coated roof with a quality two-coat system is priced to last around ten years. A cut-corner job can start failing within three, which is the real cost of the cheapest quote.
Can you treat moss and lichen on my roof?
Yes, and it’s part of doing the job properly. Moss and lichen have to be killed and cleared before coating, not just blasted off, or they grow back through the new paint.
Does roof pitch affect the price?
Yes. Steeper pitches and difficult access need more safety setup and slow the work down, both of which move the price. It’s one of the reasons roof painting has more cost variables than almost any other trade.
Is it safe to walk on my roof to paint it?
Working at height on roofs is managed under NZ health-and-safety rules, with the right harness, edge protection, or scaffold for the job. We don’t cut corners on access safety, and the appropriate qualified party handles any scaffolding.
Can I get a rough roof price before booking a visit?
Yes — the roof painting calculator gives you a ball-park based on roof size and material. Treat it as a starting point, then book a site visit for the real figure, since pitch, access, and condition all matter.
Surface Prep & Process
Why does surface prep matter so much?
Because it’s what makes paint last. Most paint failures — peeling, flashing, joins telegraphing through — trace back to prep that was skipped or rushed. It costs more to prepare a surface properly than to give it a quick once-over, and that difference is exactly why quotes vary.
What does your prep process involve?
Depending on the surface: washing, scraping and sanding failed paint, filling and stopping, spot-priming bare areas, and a full prime coat where needed before topcoats. We spec it to the substrate and write it into the quote so you can see what you’re paying for.
What’s your painting process from start to finish?
A free consultation and written quote, colour selection, scheduling, prep, priming, topcoats, then a final sign-off against our quality checklist. A project manager keeps you in the loop throughout. The full walk-through is on our process page.
Do you prime before painting?
Yes, where the surface needs it — bare timber, fresh gib stopping, repairs, and bare patches. On new gib stopping especially, skipping primer is the number one cause of a patchy DIY finish, so we never go straight to topcoat over fresh compound.
Do I need to be home while you work?
Not the whole time. We do ask you’re available about once a week so we can give you a progress update and answer questions. Most of our clients are out at work while we paint, and arrangements like picking up a key can be made ahead of time.
How do you protect my property during the job?
Interior: delicate items you move first, everything else covered with clean drop cloths or sheeting. Exterior: shrubs and surrounding areas protected so there’s no paint splatter or peelings left behind. We leave the site tidy.
How many coats of paint do you apply?
Usually two topcoats over a prepared and primed surface — that’s what a quality finish needs. The exact system is written into your quote. A single-coat roll-over is cheaper but it’s not what we’d put our guarantee behind.
Do you brush, roll, or spray?
Whatever suits the surface and finish — often a combination. The method is chosen for the result, not just speed. We’ll use the approach that gives the cleanest, longest-lasting finish for your job.
My house was built before 1980 — should I worry about lead paint?
Older Auckland homes can have lead-based paint under newer coats, and disturbing it during sanding or stripping needs careful handling. If we suspect lead paint we’ll flag it, and lead-paint management follows the relevant NZ safety guidance — testing and any specialist removal is referred to a suitably qualified party.
What happens on the final day of the job?
We run through our quality checklist stage by stage, do a final walk-round with you, put furniture back, and clear the site. We don’t call a job finished until it passes that check and you’re happy with it.
Do you fix minor imperfections before painting?
Yes — filling cracks, nail holes, and small dents, and stopping any gib repairs, is standard prep. Bigger imperfections in the wall get filled and sanded flat so they don’t show through the finish. Anything structural we’ll flag for the right trade.
Plastering & GIB Stopping
What is gib stopping?
It’s the process of taping, stopping, and finishing the joints, corners, and screw holes in plasterboard walls so they’re paint-ready. It comes after the gib board is installed and before painting. See our plastering and gib stopping service.
What’s the difference between gib stopping and plastering?
Gib stopping finishes plasterboard joins. Traditional plastering covers solid plaster and fibrous plaster ceilings — common in older Auckland villas — which is a different job and a different price. We do both, but they’re separate scopes.
How much does gib stopping cost?
Around $25–$70 per square metre for labour, depending on the finish level. A standard bedroom is about $1,000–$1,800; a full three-bedroom house of new gib from around $8,000. Finish level is the single biggest cost variable — see our gib stopping cost guide.
What are the gib finish levels?
New Zealand uses a finish-level system where higher levels mean more skim coats and more sanding for a flatter result. Higher levels (Level 4 and 5) suit critical lighting and gloss finishes and take significantly more time, which is why they cost more. We’ll recommend the level that suits your walls and lighting.
What does the gib stopping process involve?
Three main coats: a taping coat (tape embedded over every join, screw holes filled), a filling coat (feathered wider to blend flat), and a finishing skim to catch imperfections. Each coat dries and is sanded before the next. The quality of the final sand decides how good the paint looks.
Why does bad gib stopping ruin a paint job?
Because poor stopping telegraphs through paint — visible joins, ridges along tape lines, and screw dimples that reappear when the wall flexes. It’s one of the most common reasons interior painting looks worse a year on than it did on day one.
Do I need to prime after gib stopping?
Always — never go straight to topcoat over fresh stopping. A sealer like Resene Broadwall Surface Prep & Seal or Dulux Prepcoat seals the compound and gives a uniform base. Skipping this is the number one mistake we see on DIY interior jobs.
Can I DIY my own gib stopping?
You can, but it’s harder than it looks — the flatness comes from the filling coat and the sand, and mistakes show up badly under paint. For a small patch it’s doable; for a whole room or house it’s usually worth having it done properly.
How long does gib stopping take to dry?
Each coat needs to fully dry before the next, and in Auckland’s humid winters the taping coat can take 24 hours or more. Rushing coats on before they’re dry causes cracking and shrinkage, so it’s not a job to hurry.
Do you do gib stopping as part of an interior repaint?
Yes — most of our gib stopping is part of an interior painting project, on new builds or renos where sections of gib have been replaced or repaired. Having the same team stop and paint means the surface is prepped exactly for the coats going on it.
Can you repair damaged plaster on an older villa?
Yes. Fibrous plaster ceilings and solid plaster in older Auckland villas are a traditional plastering scope, separate from gib stopping. We’ll assess the damage at the visit and quote the right repair.
Paint Products & Colour
Do you recommend Resene or Dulux?
We use both and would spec either depending on the job. Both make excellent products (and some ordinary ones) across their ranges. The right question isn’t the brand — it’s which product, for which surface, in which environment, at which finish. Our Resene vs Dulux comparison breaks it down.
What’s the difference between Resene and Dulux?
Resene is 100% NZ-owned, founded in Lower Hutt in 1946, and formulates for NZ conditions — sold mainly through its own ColorShops with specialist staff. Dulux has strong exterior durability products and wide availability. Both perform well here; product choice matters more than brand.
Do you offer a colour consultation?
Yes. Choosing colour is one of the most common things clients want help with, and getting it right up front avoids the cost of a colour change later. We can guide you on colour and finish per room as part of the quote process.
How do I choose an exterior colour scheme?
Think about your cladding, the light on each face of the house, and how it sits with the roof and neighbouring homes. Test pots on the actual wall beat colour chips every time, because NZ light changes how a colour reads. We can help you narrow it down at the consultation.
What paint is best for a bathroom or kitchen?
A washable, moisture-resistant semi-gloss like Resene Sonyx 101 or Dulux Aquanamel, both of which resist mould and clean up easily. In Auckland’s humidity, using the right product and having good ventilation is what stops mould taking hold within a year.
What paint holds up best on Auckland exteriors?
On weatherboard, Resene Lumbersider is a proven performer — breathable and good in UV. Dulux Weathershield is another durable exterior option. For rough-sawn or natural timber, Resene Woodsman. The right pick depends on your substrate, which we confirm at the quote.
Can you match an existing colour?
Yes. Resene and Dulux can both match a colour from a sample, and their ColorShops and stores have the tools to do it. Bring us a chip or a piece of the surface and we’ll get it matched.
Are there low-odour or low-VOC paint options?
Yes. Both Resene and Dulux offer waterborne, low-VOC products that are far less smelly than old solvent-based paints — a common choice for interiors, especially bedrooms and homes with kids. We can spec one if that matters to you.
Is there a pet-friendly or child-friendly paint?
Low-VOC waterborne paints are the sensible choice around pets and children, with less odour and lower emissions as they cure. We’re happy to spec one and talk through keeping areas ventilated while the paint cures.
What sheen level should I pick?
Flat and low-sheen hide imperfections and suit ceilings and low-traffic walls; satin and semi-gloss wipe clean and suit kitchens, bathrooms, hallways, and trims. It’s a trade-off between hiding the wall and being able to clean it, and we’ll recommend per room.
Can you paint over wallpaper, or does it need to come off?
It depends on the wallpaper’s condition and type. Sound, well-stuck paper can sometimes be sealed and painted, but loose or textured paper is better removed for a clean finish. We’ll assess it at the visit and give you the straight answer.
Commercial Painting
What types of commercial buildings do you paint?
Offices, retail tenancies, warehouses, apartment blocks under body corporate, schools, and medical fit-outs across Auckland. See our commercial painting service or the commercial painting guide.
How is commercial painting different from residential?
It’s not just bigger — it’s run differently. The differences are about when the work can happen, working around your operations and customers, site access at height, and stricter health-and-safety. A painter who only does houses will quote an office like a house, and that’s where blowouts come from.
What does commercial painting cost?
Most commercial repaints land around $40–$50 per square metre, depending on access and surface. Use the commercial calculator for a ball-park, then book a site visit for an accurate figure since scheduling and access vary widely.
Can you work outside our business hours?
Yes. Scheduling around your operations — after hours, overnight, or in staged zones — is a core part of commercial work so we don’t shut your business down. We plan this into the quote.
Will painting disrupt our day-to-day operations?
We plan the job to keep you running — working in stages, off-hours, or zoning off areas so staff and customers can carry on. Managing that disruption is exactly what separates a commercial painter from a residential one.
Do you provide a project manager for commercial jobs?
Yes — a dedicated project manager on every commercial job. That structure matters more on a commercial site than almost anywhere, keeping scheduling, safety, and sign-off on track and giving you one point of contact.
How do you handle health and safety on commercial sites?
Commercial sites carry stricter health-and-safety requirements, and we plan and run the job to meet the relevant NZ workplace safety rules — access, working at height, and coordinating with others on site. Any specialist access like scaffolding is handled by the appropriate qualified party.
Can you paint occupied offices and retail spaces?
Yes. Occupied spaces are the norm in commercial work — we stage the job, use low-odour products where it helps, and schedule around trading hours so the space stays usable.
Do you do body-corporate and apartment block painting?
Yes. Apartment blocks under body corporate are a regular part of our commercial work, and we’re used to coordinating with committees and managers on scope, access, and timing.
Is there a minimum size for commercial jobs?
No fixed minimum — we take on everything from a single office fit-out to multi-storey buildings. Get in touch with what you’ve got and we’ll tell you how we’d approach it.
When is painting not the right answer for a commercial building?
Sometimes it isn’t — if a surface has failed structurally or the substrate is past coating, paint won’t fix it and we’ll say so. We’d rather give you the honest call at the quote than take a job that won’t hold up.
Guarantees & Warranty
Do you guarantee your work?
Yes. All our work is backed by our Picture Perfect Guarantee — our promise of a magazine-worthy result. We value quality above price, and the details are on our guarantee page.
What is the Picture Perfect Guarantee?
It’s our commitment that your home looks the part when we’re finished, using reputable suppliers and products and our quality checklist at every stage. We never compromise on quality just to be price-competitive.
How long is the workmanship guarantee?
A workmanship guarantee should always come with a validity date, and ours is set out in your quote and on our guarantee page. When you compare quotes, check each one names a guarantee period rather than leaving it vague.
What does the paint manufacturer’s warranty cover?
That’s separate from our workmanship guarantee. Products like Resene and Dulux exterior systems carry their own manufacturer warranties tied to correct application. Using the specified product and coats properly is what keeps that cover valid — another reason prep and spec matter.
How do you make sure the quality is there before you finish?
We use a quality checklist at every stage of the job, and an experienced project manager oversees the work against it. Nothing gets signed off until it’s passed that check and you’re happy.
What happens if I’m not happy with something?
Tell us and we’ll put it right — that’s what the guarantee is for. We start with a free consultation to understand exactly what you’re after so the end result matches what you pictured, and we’d rather fix a detail than leave you unhappy.
How quickly will you respond if I have a question during the job?
If someone on the team can’t take your call straight away, we aim to be in touch within two hours. Keeping you informed at every stage is something we treat as part of the job, not an extra.
Why do so many of your jobs come from referrals?
Because we put client relationships first — gaining and keeping that trust is the priority. A large share of our work comes from referrals from previous clients, which we reckon says more than anything we could claim ourselves.
Do you use subcontractors, and are they held to the same standard?
Where we use subcontractors we only work with reputable ones, and their work goes through the same quality checklist as ours. The project manager is accountable for the whole job regardless of who’s on the tools.
What if a problem shows up months after the job?
Get in touch. A quality job is priced to last — exterior systems for years, not months — so if something’s not right within the guarantee period we’ll look at it. This is exactly why we don’t cut prep to win on price.
How do I book a job or ask a question?
Book a free consultation for a quote, or contact us with a question. We’ll come out, look at the actual job, and give you an accurate on-site estimate with no obligation.